Frequently Asked Questions

Can I rake after the crabgrass prevention application of fertilizer and weed control has been applied?
Crabgrass control forms a barrier along the soil to prevent the crabgrass seed from germinating.  If the barrier is scratched (by raking), it may be broken and the crabgrass can then germinate.  For optimal results, it is best to rake before the crabgrass preventer is applied. However, if you use us for your lawn care (fertilizing and weed control) we offer post-emergent treatments throughout the season.  This is included in our 5 visit Premier and Classic package, but can also be added by upgrading your package at any time. [back]

How late can crabgrass prevention be applied to the lawn?  What is the optimal timing in the spring?
Crabgrass doesn't know the calendar. It only knows the soil temperature. Crabgrass will start to germinate when the soil temperature reaches 50 to 60 degrees at a depth of 2". Therefore, pre-emergent can be applied until that time, which is usually around the end of May or the beginning of June.  The thing to remember is that the crabgrass barrier works for 12 weeks once it has been put down.  For folks who get anxious and “must” have their pre-emergent put down at the end of April, there are 4 extra weeks of the crabgrass barrier that will be wasted before emergence of crabgrass.  It would be preferable to use those 4 weeks toward the end of the growing season.  Thus, optimal timing of pre-emergent is toward the end of May. [back]

I think I have crabgrass, but the technician told me it is quackgrass.  How can I tell the difference?
Quackgrass:  Quackgrass is a perennial and is considered to be a cool season grass.  When left unmowed, it has cord-like stalks that can reach 3 feet tall. Most of the time you’ll see quackgrass in round patches due to its radial growth of the underground rhizomes.  The leaves are wide, shiny, and dark green in color.  It starts growth in early spring and continues until late fall.  Unfortunately, there is no legal chemical that will selectively take quack out of your lawn.  Killing it requires a dose of Round-up or similar product which will, yes, also kill anything that is green and/or desirable around it.

Crabgrass:  Crabgrass is an annual that begins to make its appearance VISUALLY in July/August.  The crabgrass plant is generally a low-growing cluster with thick blades which are reddish-green in color.  Crabgrass germinates when the average soil temperature reaches about 50-60 degrees F at a depth of 2-3 inches.  It thrives in hot, dry conditions where there is little or no competition from other grass species.  Crabgrass is usually more prominent along curbsides, sidewalks, and other general boundaries.  [back]

A crabgrass pre-emergent application was applied to my lawn.  Why am I seeing crabgrass?
Crabgrass germinates when the average soil temperature reaches about 50-60 degrees F at a depth of 2-3 inches.  It thrives in hot, dry conditions where there is little or no competition from other grass species.  Crabgrass is usually more prominent along curbsides, sidewalks, and other general boundaries.  The best method of control is a healthy, well established lawn.  While most of us are in the process of this accomplishment, chemicals may still have to be used to gain adequate control.  Be careful!  Mowing too short can initiate crabgrass germination (and other weeds) by warming the soil and causing moisture stress in desirable grasses.

Crabgrass seed germinates throughout the season, not all at one time.  The crabgrass preventer we put down in our spring application of fertilizer is lasting protection for the season.  Though it’s effects will usually wear off sometime in September, crabgrass that is growing late in the season will die off after it is nipped by the first frost. [back]

What is the proper amount of water for my lawn?
A typical lawn needs at least of 1 inch of precipitation a week.  If you choose to use a sprinkler, use an empty coffee can or a similar container in the middle of the sprinkler pattern.  Keep track of the time it takes for the container to accumulate ¾ inches of water, then move the sprinkler to another area and repeat.  If you do this process twice a week, you will keep your lawn lush and green, and you will know how long to leave your sprinkler in each area to water properly.

Another note:   Watering frequently and lightly causes very shallow root systems.  Shallow root systems have a hard time obtaining the nutrients they need because they are limited to a smaller area.  Thus, the lawn is less drought tolerant and more prone to disease.
Deep, infrequent watering stimulates the roots to grow deeper and search out water as the soil dries out.  Deeper rooted turf is a stronger, healthier turf. [back]

What is thatch?
Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that lies at the surface of the soil.  It is made up of surface roots, stems, and crowns of grass plants.

Every lawn has a little thatch and that is a good thing! Thatch helps to retain water and vital nutrients. Too much thatch can cause serious damage and thinning of the lawn. Excessive thatch traps water and nutrients which provides a breeding ground for fungus and surface feeding insects.

The best cure for preventing the excessive buildup of thatch is scheduling yearly spring cleanups or dethatching (spring tooth raking) and core aerations.  [back]

What are the benefits of a lime application?
Lime is a compound of calcium and magnesium – all natural and safe to walk and play on immediately after application!  Lime naturally neutralizes  - or “sweetens” – the acid in your soil.  Acidic soil blocks the fertilizer from fully releasing to the grass plant.  Soils that were once or are currently in dense pine tree areas are notorious for having an acidic level and so would benefit from a lime application. 

Lime can also improve the color and density of your lawn while also helping to control thatch and improve root development.  It does, however, take time to reap the full benefits of a lime application – 6-12 months average.  Lime is safe to have applied annually.  The cost is minimal and it benefits ANY lawn! [back]

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